Benjamin Leroux Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets 2023

There’s an old saying in Burgundy that goes: “If you haven’t drunk Caillerets, you don't know Volnay.” Benjamin Leroux could hardly conceal his excitement when he first told us he had access to a parcel of vines in this famous site, which he calls the “King of Volnay.” That excitement has certainly been borne out in the brilliant new releases.

Les Caillerets is a beautifully exposed terroir that sits mid-slope, on the border with Meursault. It’s exploited by important growers such as d’Angerville, Lafarge and Pousse d’Or. The 14-odd-hectare vineyard is subdivided into three lieux-dits, with Leroux now farming 0.5 hectares of Pinot Fin (planted in 1945, 1985 and the late ‘90s) in the area known as Caillerets-Dessus. Crafted with a high proportion of whole bunches (80%—only the fruit from the youngest vines was destemmed), the wine aged in roughly one-quarter new oak. Hedonistic indeed, it also has the class and balance of a Grand Cru wine.