Champagne Laherte Frères Petit Meslier NV (Base 19. Disg. Apr 2022)

Petit Meslier has formed an integral part of Aurélien Laherte’s cuvée Les 7 for almost 20 vintages. One of Champagne’s heirloom varieties, Meslier is a historic cross between Gouais Blanc and Savagnin, and although it has been largely forgotten in Champagne, the Laherte family has remained attached to the grape’s personality and its ability to maintain acidity, even in warmer vintages. Between 2014 and 2018, Laherte established a mid-slope vineyard on Chavot’s clay/limestone soils, using masssale cuttings from the domaine’s oldest Meslier vines.

This wine marks the second release of this exciting project. The grapes went to Laherte’s antique Coquard press, and the juice flowed into old barrel by gravity. A wild ferment was followed by malolactic fermentation and the wine was aged for six months on lees in barrel and then further sur lattes. It’s based on the 2019 vintage with 40% reserve wines, and was disgorged by hand with just two grams per litre dosage (extra brut).

When Domaine Didier Dagueneau decided to craft a sparkling wine in Pouilly Fumé (yet to be released) Benjamin Dagueneau chose Petit Meslier as its hero. From the first glass, it’s clear why both Laherte and Dagueneau have decided to put their faith in this special, forgotten variety. Champagne thrill seekers should not hesitate.