Joh Jos Prüm Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2023

At this level, the Prüm wines are still light in body, but the flavour intensity and depth of character go up markedly, and the 2023s deliver a mesmerising balance between elegance, freshness, racy fruit and savoury, slate-like minerality. There is considerably more depth of fruit here than in the Kabinett-level wines, although not necessarily perceptible sweetness. Instead, it is a question of more flesh, more power and, therefore, wines that can stand up to richer food. Katharina Prüm believes this category is the most versatile at the table. We agree. Again, as the notes below attest, 2023 is a stunning vintage for Prüm’s Spätlese. These wines are already thrilling to taste but will continue gaining depth and complexity for decades.