Pyramid Valley North Canterbury Chardonnay 2022

The North Canterbury Chardonnay comes from two vineyards, principally Waipara Springs, where old-vine Mendoza Chardonnay grows on the Omihi clay soils. This year’s release includes one barrel of first-crop Chardonnay from Pyramid’s organic Central Otago farm in Lowburn. Hand-harvested several weeks later than in 2021, the must fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged in 20% new French oak and 40% concrete ‘Tuilpes’ for 12 months before settling in concrete on light lees for another four months. Bottled unfined and unfiltered, it’s a super classy, flinty expression, with savoury cashew notes supported by ripe stone and citrus fruits tethered by underlying salinity.

“This is extremely well-made, with sliced dried apples, apple tart, flint and matchstick as well as a hints of smoke. It’s medium-bodied with lovely fruit and a light bitterness that gives complexity and presence.” 95 points, James Suckling, jamessuckling.com