Vins de la Madone Côtes du Forez Migmatite 2021

The Migmatite is drawn from a 50-year-old parcel of low-yielding Gamay on the Migmatites du Montbrison—a kind of granite, covered in sand and clay and mixed with Migmatite (igneous/metamorphic rock). This soil type extends to just 25 hectares of the current plantings across the Côtes du Forez and, while it’s said to be responsible for producing lighter styles of wine, Bonnefoy’s derisory yields of only 25 hl/ha ensure there is charming depth to go with the region’s refreshing persona. The grapes were hand-harvested followed by whole-cluster, semi-carbonic fermentation (à la Beaujolais) with native yeasts. Aging was in stainless-steel cuve and the wine was bottled with minimal SO2.
We’re getting a little more serious now as the old vines and whole-bunch vinification introduce more depth and complexity. There’s more meat on the bones. The palate is fabulously enticing, with waves of dark berry fruit and smoky/green pepper spice (a feature of this site according to Bonnefoy) alongside a wash of acidity that lifts the long, refreshing finish. Very lucid, very Gamay and, while there is something old school and rocky, and almost Brouilly-esque, the wine remains super-bright and pure.